Ultimate Guide to Long Exposure Photography

Have you seen images where the water looks soft and silky, almost unreal? Or cars’ taillights transformed into long red lines with clouds blurred and stretched across the sky?

You might have thought that these images were heavily manipulated in an advanced photo editor, but that’s not the case. They’re actually the result of an easy camera technique you can begin using today.

This technique is known as Long Exposure Photography. It takes advantage of slow shutter speeds to create creative and unique-looking imagery. It’s commonly used by landscape photographers, architecture photographers, portrait and street photographers, and many others.

In this article, you’ll learn the essentials of Long Exposure Photography. In just a few easy steps, you’ll be ready to blur moving elements, give water a creamy look, or make the sky look stunning with its long and stretched clouds.

Jump to Section:

• What is Shutter Speed?
• Quick Tip: Practical Excercise to Understand Shutter Speed
• Essential Equipment for Long Exposure Photography
• Setting Up and Capturing Long Exposure Photos
• Long Exposure Photography Examples and Ideas
• Conclusion

What is Long Exposure Photography?

So, what exactly is Long Exposure Photography?

As the name indicates, it’s a photographic style involving long exposure times or slow shutter speeds. By doing so, we can blur moving elements such as water, cars, or clouds.

The exact definition is somewhat vague, but most photographers agree that a long exposure begins when the shutter speed is too slow to capture a sharp handheld image. That exact shutter speed varies based on the camera and focal length.

Not only landscape photographers have grown to love the technique; it’s also popular among other genres such as architecture, street, abstract, and culture photography. Although it is more common within certain areas of photography, the technique can be used in many ways.

What is Shutter Speed?

Long Exposure Photography requires a slow shutter speed. Therefore, to fully understand this technique, it’s essential to understand the fundamental camera settings, especially the shutter speed.

Shutter speed is the amount of time the camera’s shutter is open. This period is measured in seconds or fractions of seconds. A larger denominator, such as 1/1000, is a quicker shutter speed than a lower denominator, such as 1/10.

A lower denominator, or slower shutter speed, allows more light to reach the sensor.

Recommended Reading: An Introduction to Shutter Speed in Photography

The camera registers everything that moves within a frame as long as the shutter is open, which is why the water looks blurred, clouds stretch across the skies, and cars leave light trails.

Quick Tip: Practical Exercise to Understand Shutter Speed and Long Exposure Photography

Understanding shutter speed can be a little complicated when just getting into photography. However, having this basic knowledge is essential to taking full advantage of the Long Exposure technique.

Below is an easy and practical exercise to see how the shutter speed affects a photo:

1. Place the camera on a tripod, table, or another place where it can stand steady
2. Set the shutter speed to 1/1000 and ask someone to walk across the frame (or use a delayed shutter and do it yourself)
3. Adjust the shutter speed to 1/500 and repeat
4. Repeat again, but this time using even slower shutter speeds such as 1/200, 1/20, 1/5, and end with 1 second

There’s not much difference between the first few images (unless the person sprinted through the room). However, the image drastically changes once the shutter speed reaches 1/5th of a second.

At one second, the person walking across the room is entirely blurry; some would say it looks like a ghost!

This is an easy exercise that you can do anywhere to see precisely what happens when you lengthen the exposure time. Bring a tripod and head to the nearest river, and you will see how the Long Exposure Photography technique can impact your landscape photography.

Essential Equipment for Long Exposure Photography

The ‘essential equipment for photography‘ topic has many opinions and tends to get quite heated. I strongly believe that great images can be captured with any camera but it’s important to understand your equipment’s limitations. When it comes to Long Exposure Photography, there’s no getting around the fact that there are a few tools you won’t get good results without.

Luckily, the list of essential equipment for Long Exposure Photography is short:

#1 Camera with manual functions

It shouldn’t be necessary to mention that a camera is required to photograph, but I’ll mention it anyway.

The Long Exposure Photography technique can be achieved using most digital cameras (or even the latest smartphones). The main requirement is that it has the possibility to manually adjust the camera settings, such as ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.

Cameras with Bulb or Time mode are extra useful for achieving shutter speeds above 30 seconds. However, this is not a requirement.

#2 A sturdy tripod

A tripod is essential for Long Exposure Photography. I repeat. A tripod is essential.

Some might get creative and use rocks or other objects to rest the camera on, but we both know that it’s a less flexible and sturdy solution. Keep in mind that this technique requires the use of slow shutter speeds, often stretching into seconds or even minutes. In those situations, it’s impossible to capture sharp images handheld.

Recommended Reading: How to Choose Your Next Tripod

The tripod doesn’t need to be the most expensive and high-quality version currently available, but I recommend that you invest in one that’s sturdy. It might be tempting to get the cheapest option from your local photography store, but these tend to break easily. Especially when used outdoors.

A sturdy tripod is a must, even if you’re not interested in Long Exposure Photography. It’s a valuable tool that allows you to achieve several techniques you wouldn’t have otherwise.

#3 Neutral Density filters

Neutral Density Filters are essential for Long Exposure Photography. Those who are familiar with the technique know that it’s possible to achieve long exposures without filters, too, but at the cost of image quality and complete creative control.

Neutral Density filters, more commonly referred to as ND filters, are darkened filters mounted on the lens to reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. The darker the filter, the slower the shutter speed is needed to capture a well-exposed image.

These filters aren’t necessary when photographing in the dark. At night, it already takes a long time for light to reach the sensor. However, they are essential for capturing Long Exposure Photography during the daytime. Many photographers also prefer using them during the Golden Hour.

Neutral Density filters come in several different shapes and forms. The two most common are the screw-on and drop-in/square systems. Both have pros and cons, but I won’t get too much into details now. For more information about them, I recommend reading our Introduction to Neutral Density Filters.

There are many manufacturers these days, so it can be a little overwhelming to find the perfect one. I suggest that you conduct a little research before purchasing your first filters; some of them have strong color casts that look bad.

I’ve used NiSi Filters for nearly a decade and have had a great experience with them. I’ve also used filters from LEE Filters, Singh-Ray, and B+W.

Prices range from $20 to $300 or more. The differences between the mid-range and the most expensive aren’t significant, but the cheapest rarely performs well.

Note: I recommend the Gobe Neutral Density filters for those who want an affordable entry into Long Exposure Photography. Later, I would upgrade to a NiSi Square Filter System.

How dark should the filters be for Long Exposures?

It’s important to mention that all Neutral Density filters aren’t the same. I’ve already mentioned that there are a few different systems, but they also come in various degrees of darkness.

The level of darkness is described by terms such as 2 Stop, 6 Stop, and 10 Stop. Two more terms are Optical Density and ND Factor, but let’s not get too technical yet.

These terms describe how dark the filters are and how much you need to extend the exposure time to achieve the same exposure you would without a filter.

For example, a 10-Stop Neutral Density filter requires you to use a shutter speed that is 10 Stops or 1000 times slower. That means an original shutter speed of 1/60th second becomes 16,7 seconds.

A common mistake amongst beginners of Long Exposure Photography is to purchase only the brightest filters, such as a 1 or 2 Stop. These tend to be significantly cheaper, but they don’t have much purpose in most scenarios. They only become helpful during the Blue Hour when it’s semi-dark.

6—and 10-stop filters are more commonly used to slow down the shutter speed. During the Golden Hour, the shutter speed can be extended to several minutes. These darker filters are used in most images of silky water or stretched clouds.

#4 A remote shutter release

A remote shutter release comes in handy when you’re using Bulb Mode. It’s not essential when photographing with exposure times under 30 seconds, but I recommend always using a remote shutter release or the camera’s delayed shutter function. This is an important step in reducing unwanted camera vibrations.

There are two main reasons why a remote shutter release is ideal for Long Exposure Photography:

1. It prevents camera vibration caused by pressing the camera’s shutter button
2. It helps to achieve shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds by using Bulb Mode in your camera.

Don’t worry, though. Don’t get one that’s more expensive than your camera! A simple remote shutter release is more than enough. Models that have a timer and lockup possibility can come in handy when working with long exposure times.

Setting Up and Capturing Long Exposure Photography

Now that you know the essential and recommended tools, it’s time to move on to the practical aspects of how Long Exposure Photography works. This is where the fun begins.

I’ve already mentioned that this technique is commonly used in several genres of photography. The techniques are the same regardless of the scene; only the compositional approach differs.

Below, I share the 8 steps to Long Exposure Photography that you need to follow to get the best results. Make sure to follow each step thoroughly before moving on.

#1 Find the composition

Having a solid composition is important if you want to create a compelling image. This is true for photography in general, and it’s just as important when using a slow shutter speed. It’s easy to forget about this once you see how impressive some of the elements in your frame look, but I urge you not to disregard the composition. You will regret it!

Recommended Reading: 5 Compositional Guidelines to Know in Landscape Photography

I recommend approaching the scene in the same way you would’ve normally done. Ask yourself, what’s the main subject of the image? How can you make it stand out? The sky or other moving elements should then be incorporated into the frame to emphasize this subject.

When you’ve found an interesting composition, mount the camera on a tripod and connect the remote shutter release. Make sure that the tripod is properly set up and that it stands perfectly still while taking the image.

Note: scenes without clouds or moving elements rarely benefit from a long exposure as there are no elements showing the effect.

#2 Set the ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed

The second step in setting up your long exposure image is to apply the ‘base’ settings. At this point, you should have found a composition and mounted the camera onto a tripod.

It doesn’t matter if you prefer to adjust the settings using Manual Mode or one of the camera’s Semi-Automatic Modes. The most important thing is that you note what shutter speed is required to get a well-exposed shot. Personally, I prefer (and recommend) doing this manually, but it depends on how comfortable you are with the camera.

Keep the ISO low, such as 64 or 100. The aperture depends on the scenery, but in most cases, the best setting is between f/7.1 and f/13. These two settings will remain the same throughout the entire process.

Recommended Reading: The Best Aperture for Landscape Photography

With the ISO and Aperture set, you’ll need to adjust the shutter speed accordingly. You can use the Histogram or Exposure Value to find the ideal exposure time. We’ll need this value for the next steps, so it’s important that you note the shutter speed.

If you’re not comfortable using Manual Mode, you should use Aperture Priority instead. This is the best Semi-Automatic Camera Mode for Long Exposure Photography.

#3 Take a test shot

When the settings are applied, you need to take a test shot. Look at the image preview and make sure that the exposure looks good. Zoom in on the preview to make sure that the focus is sharp as well.

#4 Switch to manual focus and camera mode

This is when things get a little more tricky (and exciting!)

If you haven’t used it already, it’s time to change your camera setting to Manual Mode. Make sure to update it with the ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed you used for the test shot if it hasn’t already been applied. It’s crucial that you stay in this mode for the remainder of the process.

Next, switch to manual focus. The image should already be in focus, as we’ve taken a test shot and double-checked that everything looks good. It’s okay to use Auto Focus during the testing period, but you need to switch it to manual before continuing.

Related Article: Manual Focus vs Automatic Focus

We need to use manual focus because the camera struggles to set a focus point when using dark Neutral Density filters. The darker the filter, the less the camera sees. Failing to use manual focus in those scenarios will lead to out-of-focus images, a mistake you don’t have time for when dealing with shutter speeds of several minutes.

#5 Mount the filter in front of the lens

The next step is to mount the filter to your camera. Most filters are placed in front of the lens, so be careful when you screw it on or slide it into the filter holder; you don’t want to twist the focus ring or move the camera.

Make sure that the filter is tightened properly and that there’s no gap between it and the lens. Small gaps lead to light leaks. This rarely happens with screw-in filters but more often with square filters that are incorrectly mounted in the adapter.

#6 Calculate the new shutter speed

After mounting a 10-stop neutral density filter, you’ll most likely not see much when looking through the viewfinder. The same applies to the camera. If you attempt to take an image now, it’s most likely pure black.

That’s why we need to find a new exposure time. There are two ways of calculating shutter speeds for Long Exposure Photography:

Method #1: Use a Long Exposure Photography app

The first method is to use a Long Exposure Photography app. This is so easy it almost feels like cheating. Perhaps it is.

There are many free apps, such as the Long Exposure Calculator, that automatically calculate the new shutter speed. All you need to do is insert the original shutter speed and the Neutral Density filter you’re using. That’s why it’s essential to note down the shutter speed you used in the test image.

Some long exposure photography apps have a built-in timer that you can use to keep track of how long the shutter has been open. This is handy when using Bulb Mode and shutter speeds of more than 30 seconds.

Method #2: Calculate the shutter speed manually

The second method is a bit harder, yet it’s an important part of understanding what’s happening. It’s OK to depend on apps, but it is beneficial to also learn how to calculate the appropriate shutter speeds. This will help you determine which shutter speed to use based on the outside brightness.

Let’s hop into it. It’s really not as difficult as it looks. First, you need to know how dark your filter is. Here are the most common options:

• ND0.3 or 1 stop = 2x shutter speed
• ND0.6 or 2 stops = 4x shutter speed
• ND0.9 or 3 stops = 8x shutter speed
• ND1.8  or 6 stops = 64x shutter speed
• ND3.0 or 10 stops = 1000x shutter speed

Based on the information above, we now know that a 10-stop reduces light by 1,000 times. That means the exposure time needs to be lengthened by 1,000 times for the same amount of light to reach the sensor. An original shutter speed of 1/125th second is now 8 seconds, and a 1/30th-second shutter speed should be extended to 32 seconds.

#7 Apply the new shutter speed

After calculating the new shutter speed, it’s time to adjust the camera settings. If the new exposure time is longer than the maximum of your camera (often 30, 60, or 90 seconds), you need to enter Bulb or Time Mode.

Certain camera models allow you to tap once to start taking an image and once more to end the exposure. In other cameras, you need to manually hold the shutter button for as long as the exposure time should be. For those situations, a remote shutter release with a lockup mode is preferred.

If the new exposure time is slower than the camera’s maximum, you select it as you would choose any other. In that case, a remote shutter release is less critical.

#8 Take the shot and make adjustments

Now that the composition is perfected and the settings are applied, it’s time to take the shot.

Once the exposure is done, look at the image preview. Now, evaluate whether the exposure looks correct. Some filters are a little darker than advertised and might require an extra stop in shutter speed. If that’s the case, adjust the shutter speed and take another shot.

That’s it. You’re now, hopefully, left with a beautiful long exposure photograph.

Long Exposure Photography Examples and Ideas

It’s important to understand that there isn’t one correct shutter speed for Long Exposure Photography. At the end of the day, it comes down to what you, as the artist, want to convey. Do you want to keep textures or blur them completely? This is where you begin to create your unique look.

The technical aspects of Long Exposure Photography is easy. The creative part is a lot more complicated. Finding your style and vision takes time. So, go out there and have fun. Find what speaks to you, and follow that path.

Here are a few examples of Long Exposure Photography in landscape photography. Each image has the camera settings attached, so you see how the shutter speed impacts a photo.

Conclusion

Long Exposure Photography is a lot of fun, and it’s a great way to capture interesting and unique images. However, it requires a little more planning than ‘regular’ photography, and any mistakes become even more visible. So, let’s do a quick summary of the 8 steps to perfecting your slow shutter images:

1. Set up the composition as you normally would
2. Apply the settings that work best for the shot without filters
3. Take a test shot and make sure the exposure and focus is good
4. Switch to manual focus and settings
5. Mount the filter onto your lens
6. Calculate the new shutter speed manually or using an app
7. Apply the new shutter speed without adjusting any other settings
8. Take the image and make adjustments to the shutter speed if needed

It’s important to follow this process step-by-step. Make sure that you take enough time to get things correctly, as any mistake might cost you valuable time. Remember, you won’t be taking many images if you’re using a 300 seconds shutter speed!

At the end of the day, Long Exposure Photography is all about experimenting. It can be applied to so many genres of photography and you’re only limited by your own creativity.

Are you trying Long Exposure Photography for the first time? Perhaps you’ve been doing it for a while? Be sure to share your best images in a comment! I’d love to see your results.

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If you want to learn more about Long Exposure Photography I’ve shared everything I know in my eBook The Ultimate Guide to Long Exposure Photography. This eBook is for those who are ready to take their images to the next level and expand their creative vision.